The earthen ksar of Ait Ben Haddou in the pink light before sunrise, with the ruined granary on the hilltop, palm trees and a gate on the dry riverbed in front

Travel guide

Moroccan history and architecture: dynasties, monuments, kasbahs and film sets

Who built what, and when: the dynasties behind Morocco's monuments, how to read a medersa or a kasbah, the UNESCO sites worth the detour and the desert ksar Hollywood keeps coming back to, explained by our team in Marrakech.

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